From Abyssinia to Arabia: An Interview with Sinke Wesho

By:  eternitysojourner

Credit:  Nashwah Safiyullah

At a recent graduation for the Sultan Qaboos College for Teaching Arabic in Oman, I watched proud students retrieve their certificates after two months of language immersion.  Amidst the largely Australian group, a warm chocolate face stood out amongst them.  Like most of the others, she too is a Deakin University student, but the winding tale of how she ended up studying Arabic in Oman is a bit more colorful than that of her peers.  In this interview, Sinke Wesho shares her experience as an Oromo Ethiopian studying in Oman and the memorable encounters she will not likely forget.

Where’s home for you?

Home for me is different places.  Wherever my siblings are is home for me, and currently, home is Australia.  Kenya is partially my home because I lived there for eight years since I was nine.  Those two places are home, but I’m naturally from Oromia [part of current Ethiopia], which is where most people would call home.

What brings you to Oman?

Learning the Arabic language, and it’s the best thing to ever happen to me.  I enrolled in Arabic classes when I started at my university three years ago, and Arabic was offered as a course.  I thought it would be a good opportunity to learn a second language because International Relations is my major.  I wasn’t sure I would come to Oman until I got my Australian citizenship. 

Would you recommend Oman as a place to study Arabic?  Absolutely.  Maybe because it’s my first experience studying abroad and I haven’t seen any better. Oman is so peaceful and the people are very generous and friendly. It has really changed my perceptions about the Middle East. It's really astounding to have a stable country in the middle of all the chaos that surrounds it.

I think Oman is a really important place to learn Arabic.  I’m not so sure about learning with the society because of their dialect, and we’re studying Modern Standard Arabic at my college.  It’s really brilliant.  The teachers start from the basics and it’s really intense and helpful.  I would definitely recommend it, and Oman’s a great place to live.

Most Ethiopians in Oman are here as domestic workers; how do you feel being here as a university student? 

I feel really privileged.  I appreciate the fact that I’m Oromo Australian because it gives me this appreciation that I’m a student here, and I’m learning someone else’s culture.  But when it comes to being a domestic worker, it’s not that it’s a bad job or not good, suitable, or preferred; it’s just that the way people treat domestic workers in this particular part of the world makes me feel even more privileged than the domestic workers here. I treat any job to be a good job, as long as it's benefitting me or helping me survive, but I do not appreciate how maids are treated in this part of the world due to color and wrongly perceived social status.

How have you been received as a woman of color? 

I don’t really know how to answer this particular question. It’s really hard to know if I’m treated well because I’m Australian or have Australian friends. I am not sure if it is because I am a guest here and Omanis highly regard their guests. However, one day, I was at an occasion; sitting in a group with my Australian friends and some ladies greeted everyone and passed me by. On many occasions, I would be ignored and its difficult to force yourself onto others, so I was happy to be by myself while my friends would be taken aside for photos or contact exchange.  Being distinguished from the rest is not good and such actions did not go well with me. I was not certain if that treatment was because I’m Black or because I’m not Omani. I would be ok if it was a one-time incident but when it’s repeated, I start to question.

I do comprehend that there is a degree of distinction between housemaids and their employers but, if I am not appreciated for what I do and not respected for who I am, then there will be some friction. This is where respect for humanity is breached and I have become a witness to this. Workers and people of color are sometimes considered inferior, much like the Martin Luther King era where being Black meant inferiority. It is so direct that it makes me question how these people survive years of working for their employers in this part of the world. Recently, I made it to Dubai, a beautiful and magnificent space. I had been very curious about the treatment of workers there, particularly the Ethiopians who are housemaids in most households and the stories are the same. However, I met someone who works in the Ethiopian consulate and deals with this issue, and his account is that there is some sort of system that protects the workers in Dubai.

Any tips for other women of color considering travel abroad?

Do it!  Be secure in who you are and be knowledgeable.  It’s important to know what other people think of you but more important to know what you think of yourself and to not let others underestimate you.

Do you have plans for future travel?

Definitely.  Traveling has been one of my wildest dreams since I was a child. 

Credit:  Jack Baldwin

Five Priceless Possessions for Traveling like a Local

By:  eternitysojourner

Last month, my family and I took a long-awaited and highly-anticipated journey to Ethiopia, visiting Addis Ababa, Harar, and Negash.  While we were riding high on the hype of an enriching historical journey, we had to come to terms with the poverty we would face in a developing country.  The tourism industry is booming in Ethiopia and there is a conscientious effort to move beyond the image of a starving, famine-stricken country, towards a prosperous and worldly society.  As with progress in most developing countries, change comes with a cost and you more than likely will feel it in your own pocket.  In spite of the rising cost of living and travel, these are five invaluable allies that helped us move through the country  "with the people".

 

1. Useful Information

While knowing the population of a city or historical facts are useful, save some time for researching what’s going to count in your day-to-day travels.  Admission fees, taxi fares, and tipping customs can be extremely variable in some parts of the world.  If you’re not careful, you can be paying double, triple, or quadruple of what’s appropriate.  Be prepared to talk down prices that are negotiable and refer to the great bartering tips shared by others here and here.  If you can talk numbers in the local language, peppered with the lingo and mannerisms of seasoned locals, then you have yet another advantage in securing a reasonable price for whatever you’re pursuing.

2. Loose Change

Keeping small bills in your wallet is useful for making donations to charities or individuals, as well as hand-to-hand business transactions in your travels.  We lost a few bucks here and there after giving a large currency note to pay a tour guide or a guesthouse and not receiving any change.  Save the big bills for large establishments and fixed fare transportation, where you're more likely to have your change returned. Keep the small bills handy for everything else.

Depending on how much cash you feel comfortable carrying, try to avoid using your debit or credit card internationally.  More than likely you’ll be paying transaction fees on both ends, so travel with large currency bills (dollars, euros, etc.) and exchange them after exiting the airport.  Airports are notorious for pitiful exchange rates, so consider using a bank or other exchange services.

Side Note:  Don’t forget to inform your home bank about your travels so they don’t assume your account is being used fraudulently!

 3. Local Connections

Use your common interests to connect with others.  Tap into clubs, groups, and societies, where you can make authentic connections on topics other than tourism and make plans to connect while you’re in town.  When researching vegan travel tips, we came across the Ethiopian Vegan Association and connected with Ethiopians who had a common interest and were keen to answer our inquiries and give us travel advice, without a fee.  One member became more than just our unofficial guide in Addis Ababa but has become a true friend.  He weaved us through the capital on a shoestring budget, with the added benefit of seeing how others live, work, and move through the bustling city.  We also found great places for delicious local food that were way off the beaten path and even further from the pages of a guidebook.

 

4. Good Health

After touring a good bit of Addis Ababa carrying my toddler daughter in a sling, I was grateful for being in good shape.  Long walks and cramped minibuses were bearable and we spent about a tenth of what it would cost to ride taxis all through town.  Similarly, we took an entertaining long distance bus which was also about a tenth of the domestic flight cost.  Being able to carry your own bags, walk comfortably, and withstand a long bus or train ride can save you the expense of private transport, tipping bellboys, and door-to-door service for your entire journey.  A habit of daily walking and exercise is not only great preparation for travel but great for healthy living in general.

5. Good Attitude

Last-minute delays, cancellations, and changes to your itinerary can be frustrating.  If you can breathe through the irritation, you’ll more than likely find a helpful hand, a kind word, or a brilliant back-up plan to keep your itinerary moving smoothly, in spite of the detour.  The angry, belligerent tourist may not be able to move beyond their disappointment, making rash decisions that spoil a good trip for everyone.  However, the patient, flexible tourist can “go with the flow”, embrace their circumstances, and ride the waves of whatever travel brings their way.  Instead of being fixated on what you “missed” and trying to buy it back at all costs, you may find a Plan B that is equally (if not, more) satisfying at a lower cost.  We had our hearts set on visiting a town that sounded great online but, to Ethiopians, was not as spectacular as we thought.  We saved some time and money by changing our plans and it was the best decision we could’ve made.  Be open to the possibilities and travel safely!  J