The Precariousness of Getting There: Travel's Hardships and Blessings

Nicole Maisha, January 2013 - On a recent flight from Washington DC to Dakar, Senegal we had a strange experience.  Before we took off, the pilot got on the PA system and told us there would be quite a bit of turbulence for the first part of the trip.  A couple of passengers nearby were also telling several of us that it would be a very bumpy ride initially because of a storm system brewing over the Atlantic.  But alas, after takeoff and more than two hours into the flight there was nothing beyond the normal bumps here and there.  Then suddenly one of the flight attendants walked hurriedly down the aisle and told his colleague to put away the duty free cart because we were getting ready to "hit some really bad turbulence". You can imagine the fear we experienced upon hearing his words.  Our anxiety was more a reaction to his tense demeanor than anything else.  I turned to my husband and asked him to make du'a (Islamic term for supplication) for our safety and protection. We never actually hit any bad turbulence.  In fact, we didn't hit more than a few waves and bumps that were scarcely felt.  It seems that the pilot was able to avert the storms and winds by slightly changing course.  And that change even got us to our destination about 30 minutes early!

Cape Verdean Ferry

I often write about the spiritual, visceral and emotional experiences of traveling. I'm usually referring to the part where you've actually arrived at and are enjoying your destination.  But when you really think about it, the getting there is just as enlightening.  Plane travel has distanced us from the precariousness of international journeys; however, even when you're in- country you get a sense of how risky and scary any voyage can be.  For example, I was just traveling in Senegal - from the capital Dakar down to Kedougou, the southeastern edge of the country close to the border with Guinea.  It's approximately 500 km and if road infrastructure was good it would be about a 7- hour drive. But the roads in the country's interior are narrow, windy and riddled with potholes in some parts.  To top it off, the buses used to transport passengers are old, rickety and often in poor mechanical shape.  Seats can be old, windows not working and passengers squeezed into tight seats and rows.  What adds to the dangerousness are the mounds of luggage, goods and boxes that are piled high on the roof and the seeming recklessness of the drivers who are often sleep-deprived before setting off on the 12- to 13-hour overnight drive.  You are literally on a wing and a prayer during those trips.  

I've heard many stories, both in the news and from personal accounts, of people injured or even killed in bus accidents.  My friend’s cousin had to get stitches on her face and arms after her bus from Conakry, Guinea tipped over in the middle of the night. Even my husband gets antsy.  On our most recent bus trip to Kedougou he gave the driver a piece of his mind.  When he felt we were going too fast, he yelled out, “hey, you have our life in your hands.  Be careful!”  Then, there was the time I took an hour-long ferry ride between islands in Cape Verde. The Atlantic Ocean was rough, the boat was unstable, people were getting sea-sick, and I was traveling alone.  I seriously thought the boat might capsize.  Obviously, it didn't   Halfway through, I made subtle contact with an older man on the boat who had clearly made the trip numerous times.  We were able to communicate with the few Creole words I knew and he tapped my back and comforted me as he saw my motion-sickness and the shear fear on my face. 

If you are brave - or some would say naive- enough to take these kind of trips (or just one of tens of thousands of people who have no choice), then you will likely be tapping into your personal faith and spiritual foundation for protection. These examples are pretty extreme, I know! But even with the statistical safety of modern aviation, nothing is guaranteed.  You're likely not completely comforted by numbers when you weather the severe turbulence of an ocean storm that reaches you 33,000 feet in the air.  When you travel, you are vulnerable, you put yourself at risk and many times you pray that you make it to the other side unscathed.  It is a hardship and a blessing.  

Pretty nice tour bus in the desert of Bahrain

The bus that goes from Dakar to Kedougou

The acknowledgement of this travel duality – the danger and the benefit -figures prominently in Islamic tradition. Seeking blessings and protection during travel is very important for Muslims.  Muslims frequently refer to the reported sayings and examples of the Prophet Mohamed (called Hadiths) for guidance.  One Hadith says, “Three supplications will not be rejected (by Allah (SWT)), the supplication of the parent for his child, the supplication of the one who is fasting, and the supplication of the traveler”. It is believed that during travel supplication is heard by Allah (SWT) if the trip is for a good reason, but if the trip is for a bad intention this will not apply to it.  Upon returning from a journey it is reported that the Prophet Mohamed would say, “We are returning, repenting, worshiping and praising our Rabb (Lord)”. 

Finally, this verse from the Holy Qur’an touches the heart of what it means to travel. “O mankind! We created you from a single (pair) of a male and a female, and made into you into nations and tribes, that you may know each other (not that you may despise each other).  Surely the noblest amongst you in the sight of God is the most god-fearing of you. God is All-knowing and All-Aware" (Quran 49:13).  As a Muslim, an adventurer and a world traveler, I gladly and humbly accept those hardships and blessings each and every time I have the opportunity!

Do you have a particular travel ritual that helps you feel protected?

On the hills of Fogo, CV

Purpose and Passion: An Interview with Dr. Nicole Monteiro

By:  eternitysojourner

Several months ago, I met a new friend on a mothering forum.  Both residing in the Gulf, we began chatting about our mutual love for travel and the excitement of being new mothers.  The more we conversed, the more I realized that the humble soul I befriended is a seasoned traveler and accomplished psychologist.  Go figure! 

In this interview, Nicole shares her adventures abroad and experience of mental health on both sides of the hemisphere.  Her experiences left me so spellbound that at times I dropped my pen to simply listen!  I hope that you, too, will enjoy this glimpse of life as a mental health professional abroad. 

You describe yourself as a “world traveler, global observer, and culture connoisseur”.  Please explain.

Well, I guess those are the threads that connect both my personal and professional travels.  I’m a clinical psychologist, and I’ve been traveling since the age of 13.  Travel is a way for me to explore other cultures, people, societies, and individuals; so it’s a way to connect all of my passions which include studying the human mind, human development and human relationships.  I do a lot of international consulting work and I sought those opportunities because of my love for travelling and how important I believe it is in my field to understand the range of human behaviors and cultures.

In your profession, how similar or different is health care abroad when compared to the U.S.?

I earned my doctorate in the US and, much like American mainstream culture, the western philosophical tradition of psychology is rooted in individualism.  I did my dissertation research in Ethiopia and saw a different approach.  I was there for about ten months and observed a more holistic understanding of the individual and how psychological or mental health is defined.  That’s because the society is more communalistic.  There’s a spiritual understanding of the causes, contributions, and most aspects of health.  I found the same to be true when I was in rural Senegal and when I worked in Haiti after the earthquake of 2010.  If you don’t acknowledge spirituality or religion in your conceptualization of mental health, you won’t get far in most places around the world.

At the same time, I don’t want to romanticize the situation because you also notice that many mental illnesses can go untreated due to the stigma and limited health care resources.   This is a downside because, for example, when a mental breakdown is attributed solely to spirit possession there may be cases where the individual and family are ostracized and there aren’t alternative treatments options available to address their suffering.

More and more women of color from the West are getting out and seeing the world.  What unique opportunities and challenges does this reality pose?

I think that whenever you’re in the forefront of a movement, you encounter numerous opportunities.  When I applied for fellowships or jobs abroad, people were really interested in me, my stories and experiences more than, say, those of a white male.  You can really sell yourself as having a unique perspective and understanding of diversity.  As far as the challenges- people don’t exactly have an accurate perception of women of color and assume, because they don’t know anything about us or have been misinformed by skewed images, that we are promiscuous or uneducated.  Folks have said some crazy things to me!  However, this means we have an opportunity to enlighten and open that conversation.   

Last year you added yet another credential to your CV…you became a mom!  How has mothering changed you, your view of the world, and traveling in it? 

I notice a lot of responses, reactions, and projections that my daughter receives as a young, black baby.  Most of them are positive, some neutral, but I’ll also get negative comments about her complexion or hair, even from my own friends and colleagues.  Having a baby with me abroad has elicited so many responses.  At first, I found it annoying and irritating but now, I look at it as another opportunity to understand people’s anxieties, conflicts and biases.  I had to take these comments towards myself and baby as my responsibility to enlighten.  It also shows me that I need to equip my daughter to be able to operate with confidence and openness- to be so comfortable with herself that other people’s misunderstandings won’t shake her or cause her to retreat.  Also, I’m going to Botswana next month, so I have to think of my daughter’s safety in terms of vaccinations, access to health care, nannies, babysitters, etc.  These are matters that I didn’t really worry about before. 

Can you share your most fascinating experience abroad?

Okay, let me see…honestly, it would have to be when I went to Haiti in May 2010, four or five months after the big earthquake.  I volunteered as a psychologist and led a mental health team.  So, to have confidence in the fact that we were able to help and had something concrete to offer was really something.  When you’re out in the world, you can feel so insignificant but in Haiti, though it sounds cliché, all of the medical volunteers were really like a global community working for the greater good.  I interacted with a people and culture that are so resilient.  Even though there was so much sadness, a collective trauma, and limited resources, the faith and spirit of the people was so strong- it was humbling.  It was a learning experience that really helped me as a professional. 

What about your most frightening experience abroad?

Riding on a small ferry boat for an hour-long trip across the Atlantic Ocean between two islands in Cape Verde (Fogo and Brava).  The ocean was rough, the boat was unstable, people were getting sea-sick, I was by myself and I didn’t speak Creole/no one spoke English.  I seriously thought the boat might capsize.  Obviously, it didn’t!  But during the ride, I made subtle eye contact with an older man on the boat who had clearly made the trip numerous times.  We were able to communicate with the few words I did know and he rubbed my back and comforted me as he saw my motion-sickness and the shear fear on my face.  I couldn’t help but imagine the horrible journey our ancestors made across the Atlantic during the trans-Atlantic slave trade!

What advice would you like to offer a young woman of color, setting out for her first experience living or traveling abroad?

I would say just tap into your inner strength and the essence of who you are. Be confident and be open.  I would also say not to put up barriers; use the opportunity to explore and learn.  Why travel half way around the world if you’re not going to engage with others. Also use the time to learn and develop yourself.  It’s like the saying goes, “no matter where you go, you always take yourself with you”.   Don’t think you can escape all of your problems just because you travel or move abroad.

I also think that traveling builds your confidence.  There aren’t many situations that can make me give up or make me feel helpless.  A smile and a nice tone of voice go a long way.  Learn how to build relationships with people.  Be confident, be open, and…be charming.  J

Read more about Dr. Monteiro’s travels and insights at Global Insights and Neneh Fati.