One Restaurant, One Table, Two Happy WoCLA

By:  Brittany S

One of the things I love most about Korea is the random acts of kindness that occur between Koreans and expats.  The other day, I was waiting for my friend to meet me at 7-11 so we could pop fireworks for 4th of July.  Korean 7-11s have patios with patio furniture on them.  I sat in one of the chairs near a family that was enjoying a meal they brought from home (picnic at 7-11?).  They saw me and immediately tried to get their timid toddler to say "Hi" to me in English.  I smiled and waved at her, then the family started trying to include me in their picnic!

In the same week, my ["Woman of Color Living Abroad"--WoCLA] friend, Perl, told me that her former employer wanted to take her to a very special restaurant and wanted her to bring a [WoCLA] friend to share in the experience.  Up until this very day, I had never heard of this woman, nor her of me.  But, she drove to my apartment to pick me up and take me to this unique restaurant.

I've said this before and I'll say it again--Love knows no language.  My Korean isn't as great as it used to be (thanks to 6 wks in America), but Koreans are very patient with my attempts and they put forth the little English they may know.  Meeting new people is no longer intimidating because of a language barrier.  We always work it out.  Even silence is now comfortable.  On our 30 minute ride up the mountain, the silence allowed us to take in the breathtaking view.

The city I live in is considered a somewhat rural area.  However, there is a rather thriving city life here, so you can avoid the countryside experience if you so choose.  This restaurant was up in the mountains, therefore placing it on the outskirts of town, on a lot of back and windy roads without street signs or signals.  If someone where to ask me today how to get to that restaurant, I'd have nothing to go off of except the more green you see around you, the closer you are getting.

When Perl first told me this restaurant only had one table, I thought either something was lost in translation between her and her former employer, or this place was extremely exclusive and required reservations months in advance.  Neither was the case.  I jokingly said "are we just going to someone's house for dinner?" but when we arrived, that was exactly what it was!  This particular family had chosen to split their home into two parts closed off from one another.  One part served as the restaurant and pottery barn (as all the dishes they use there, from bowls to serving trays to mugs, etc, they make and sell) and the other the residence.  The restaurant was designed with traditional Korean paper all around the interior, and hundreds of hand-crafted items lining every wall and shelf.  The low table was handmade as well.

Our waitress/chef/host was very friendly and very curious about the WoCLA who came to visit her on this day.  We were her first expat visitors!  We spoke as much Korean as we could and filled in the blanks with English.  They did the opposite for us.  When the food arrived, we were given two different kind of salads.  The most interesting part of this was we were served a salad with FLOWERS in it!  I was very surprised that the most satisfying part of the salad was a petal!  My friend and I devoured this part of the meal, thinking this was the main/only course.






Soon, lightly fried eggplant, pumpkin, and mushrooms arrived, as well as a plethora of side dishes.

 



The side dishes looked like different shades of green of the same plant (with a few other variations).  We tried them all.

 



As if that wasn't enough, she brought out a soybean stew and traditional (purple) rice.

 



We wrapped up the meal with omija, a traditional tea that is famous for having "5 flavors" on your tongue.

 


There was so much food leftover and I couldn't believe that we had a 100% organic and vegetarian-friendly meal that was completely satisfying and delicious!  The best part about it was that it cost 10,000won per person (about $9 USD)!

The owner was so happy we came that she gave us our choice of pottery to take with us.  I was so glad Perl invited me to take part in this experience.  Below is a video she made of our experience.  Check it out!

 

(Perl's comment about eating the dog is because we passed my restaurant that I ate dog at on the way here.  That is another story...)

Finding Organic Produce Abroad

By:  eternitysojourner

Whether herbivore or omnivore, most would agree that consuming fresh produce is essential to good health.  In Western countries, we find small sticker labels on produce to distinguish conventional from organic, but how do you know the difference in the rest of the world?  Are the “dirty dozen”and “clean fifteen” lists relevant outside of the United States?  Because fresh fruits and vegetables make up the majority of my diet, this issue is critical for me.  I don’t want pesticides circulating in my bloodstream nor that of my family’s, so here’s my strategy for securing that my produce is organic (or near organic) when traveling abroad.

Research

Before you touch ground read up about agriculture in your new destination.  There are some countries that have made legal commitments to only grow organic, non-genetically modified produce, while other countries do the same because they cannot afford otherwise.  Take Ethiopia as an example.  When I arrived, a fellow vegan informed me that all of Ethiopia’s produce is organic.  Why?  Because farmers cannot afford to purchase the herbicides and pesticides made popular by corporatized farm factories in the developed world.  Even if I doubted his assertion, all of the food I ate had a rich, sweetness to it, unlike the flavorless conventional counterparts I grew up eating in New York City.

Connect

Supporting local farmers is not only good for the local economy but also your health.  Whether organized farmer’s markets, traditional markets, or a friendly farmer in the neighborhood, all are great options for knowing the source of your food, allowing you to eat in good confidence.  While living in Algeria, I had a memorable experience visiting a co-worker’s family farm in the outskirts of Algiers in Sidi Abdullah.  After three bus rides to reach her home, each subsequent bus became smaller and the air progressively became clearer.  Walking across the open fields, I inhaled crisp, clean air only impeded by the occasional scent of livestock.  After meeting her family and eating a meal prepared from their very own harvest, we walked around their land, identifying vegetable crops and local herbs along with their medicinal purposes.  Knowing the hands behind the labor that farming requires not only connects you to the land but the people inhabiting it.

Observe

Conformity is not cool, not even for fruits and veggies.  Organically grown produce has character and variety and should not appear homogenous.  Look for varied sizes, shades, and shapes in your produce.  Though I usually ask a merchant if their produce is local or imported, I often know the answer based on their appearance.  Use your senses by smelling the sweetness of tree-ripened fruits, feeling the smooth texture of your vegetables, and seeing small holes in your leafy greens, made by ladybugs savoring their meal before it becomes yours.  In Yemen, I vividly remember buying okra, cutting one open and finding a little worm inside.  Initially, I was disturbed but came to realize that if this bug can safely eat it, so can I. 

Taste

When the abovementioned efforts elude you, it’s time to be your own scientist and trust your taste buds.  While in Algeria, my former director explained that some of the agricultural development agreements being forged in the country stipulated the use of herbicides and pesticides, which many farmers were unaccustomed to and some were using improperly without adequate training.  She warned us to be mindful of the produce we purchase and we heeded her advice diligently.  In most cases, we enjoyed the produce we bought, preferring the unattractive yet tasty local fruits over the uniformly shiny, waxy imports.  However, on several occasions our locally sourced beets had a distinct synthetic aftertaste, much like medicine, and we thought it best to leave them alone.  

Grow

If all other efforts prove to be fruitless, it’s time to take matters into your own hand, on your own land.  Raised garden beds, potted plants, or upcycled water jugs are all great options for growing your own produce.  In the middle of Sana’a, Yemen, my Arabic teacher had a rooftop garden where he grew flowers, strawberries, and tomatoes in recycled tin cans and paint buckets.  Whether outdoors or indoors, even the palest shade of green thumbs can start growing low maintenance plants like peppermint, aloe vera, strawberries, tomatoes, and peppers.  And, if you don’t have earth of your own to till, you can practice guerilla gardening or urban reclamation, by finding a vacant lot of public space and building your own garden.  In some countries, cultivating formerly barren land would be a welcomed act of beauty and kindness.  Establishing community gardens can even be a means of conflict resolution and peacemaking.  The possibilities are endless.

Important Note:  No matter how organic your produce may be, bacterial contamination is a possibility in many developing countries.  Wash your produce with safe potable water and peel the skin or have it peeled in your presence.  Eat your veggies with wisdom and gratitude!  :)

Vegan Travel 101

by:  eternitysojourner

Vegan Meal on Korean Air Flight

Eating abroad is its own adventure, isn’t it? There are new flavors, new tastes, and new dietary norms to explore. Many adventurers affirm that eating the local or native diet—wherever you are and wherever you may be—is part and parcel of cultural immersion. I completely understand, but my vegan ethic travels with me. With mindful planning and a little research, you can taste your way through almost any destination while keeping your plate animal-free. So, whether you’re a newly-vegan traveler or a newly-traveler vegan, take note of the following tips to keep you well-fed on your journey!

Pre-book your flight meal AND confirm in advance.
One of the worst ways to experience your first big trip across the Atlantic is hungry! You can brave your way through a domestic flight with roasted peanuts but an international flight merits a meal. The Vegetarian Meal (VGML) option usually doubles as a vegan and vegetarian meal, so you should be covered there. The VGML may be bland but it’s always edible! If you want more “spice in your life”, select the Asian Vegetarian Meal (AVML), which is pretty much code for “Indian food” (and may include dairy), or the Vegetarian Oriental Meal (VOML), which is code for Chinese or Oriental-style cuisine. When the Asian Veg meal doubles as the Veg Meal, you won’t have to covet the sumptuous curries that your South Asian co-travelers are enjoying.

Don’t forget to confirm and re-confirm your meal. Call three days in advance AND don’t hesitate to ask again during check-in.

Consult the Happy Cow.
Happy Cow is an online vegan/vegetarian dining directory.  You can find “on the ground” info for vegan eating, health food stores, restaurant reviews, etc. that spans the globe. If during your travels, you stumble across a vegetarian or veg-friendly establishment along the way, you can share your findings with other travelers by contacting Happy Cow.

Vegetarian Restaurant in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Research the local cuisine.
Take the time to research regional cuisine and you can almost always come up with at least one vegan dish (or side dish). Visit a locally-available ethnic restaurant before your travels for field research and see what you like or don’t like. When you travel, not only will you have “guideposts” to look for when ordering meals or eating at a host’s home, you can negotiate the balance between tasting the local cuisine and staying purely plant-based. Some of the national vegan foods may be considered common by the locals but that doesn’t mean they’re not tasty! Have you ever tried tempeh in Indonesia, "doubles" in Trinidad, or frijoles in Guatemala? Also, the so-called common food is more likely available at a common price, so non-vegans on a tight budget should consider going green on their next trip! ;)

Comprehend the Culture
If the general cuisine offerings don’t appease you, dig a little deeper and research the religious and socio-philosophical culture of a country. You may find devotees who commit to a cruelty-free diet and will warmly welcome you to “break bread” with them. My husband still recalls the “bomb” mushroom and noodle bowl he shared with Buddhists in their monastery over ten years ago while teaching in China. Buddhism, Jainism, Hinduism, Hare Krishna, and various forms of Yoga are a few groups that you may be able to share a meal with without joining the flock, if you don’t want to.

Make your way to the market.
In many traditional societies, the market is still the best place for fresh produce and dried staples, like nuts, raisins, dates, etc. These are great allies to keep stashed in your backpack or at your lodging while searching for vegan eateries.

Learn the lingo.
If there’s one statement that every vegan traveling solo should learn in the local dialect of their destination, it should be: “I’m a vegetarian” or “I don’t eat meat”. It’s also really important to understand these statements in context of the culture because I still get offered fish, cheese, and chicken even from my own family members and friends after almost ten years of being vegan! The easiest essential language acquisition route would be to have a list of the names of foods you do or don’t eat, accompanied by very clear facial and body gestures. If you’re stuck in an Indiana Jones encounter, where you’re offered monkey brains, a firm headshake and grasping your stomach and mouth should convey the idea clearly. Also of importance: take the time to learn how to say “please” and “thank you” in the warmest ways possible, so your host or host country doesn’t take offense to your refusal. Informing your host(s) in advance is also a great idea. You’re more likely to enjoy a satisfying meal and your host is more likely to feel satisfied by watching you lick your plate clean. ;)

Special veggie platter prepared by our hosts in Nouakchott, Mauritania

Pack some supplies.
Depending on the length of your stay and circumstances you encounter, it would be wise to pack vitamins, supplements, or snacks to get you through. Vegan protein sources are often the most challenging to find (outside of Asia), so packing protein bars, nut butters, or dairy-free milk powders can help.  Secure adequate sources of calcium, iron, vitamin B-12, and essential fatty acids to keep your health in top shape and your immune system robust.

For the herbivore, omnivore, or veg-curious amongst us, don’t think it impossible to Go Veg! on the road. Not only will the planet thank you, but, as in my experience, your tummy will thank you too! Happy Veggie Travels!